Choquequirao

Another day, another ruin. On our way back from Machu Picchu we ran into a fellow American named David, who was on his way back from some other ruins. After chatting a bit, he quickly convinced us to join him on a trek to Choquequirao, quickly becoming known as "the other Machu Picchu". So we returned to Cusco for a day to prepare then set out on the hike. It turned out to be a pretty brutal descent to a river one day, then an even more brutal 1500 meter ascent straight up to the ruins the next. Those Incas sure loved their mountain top cities. As usual, we declined the sensible option of mules to carry our gear and subjected ourselves to climbing with full packs.

All was worth the effort, though, as the ruins themselves are truly awesome. For one, the complex is larger than Machu Picchu, though only about 30% of it has been cleared. We saw many more government workers and archaeologists up there than tourists and enjoyed chatting with them about the plans for the site. The Peruvian goverment wants to bill it as Machu Picchu's sister, so that those coming to see the former will invariably visit Choquequirao, too. Thus far they have flushing toilets and showers at designated campsites and they hope to put in a cable car up to the ruins. For now, though, only hikers and those with enough money to land in a helicopter on the sacred ceremonial platform can access it.

When the ruins are completely cleared it will really be something spectacular. It already is. There are extensive agricultural terraces with designs of llamas built into the stone retaining walls, beautiful remains of temples and ceremonials sites, and lots more. You can still peek into the jungle and see more structures hiding under the vegetation. As you know from the recent "Correction", Machu Picchu was not a final holdout of the Incas against the Spanish, but researches believe that Choquequirao actually was. Rather, it was a kind of checkpoint into the area of Vilcapampa, where the Inca´s held out until the bitter end. This makes it that much more romantic and exciting.

We feel pretty lucky to have happened upon our friend David and to have seen this place before the masses hit. If they really do put in the infrastructure to make it easily accessible (which in itself will be an engineering feat par-Inca) the place will certainly become internationally renowned. If you can, get it while the gettin´s good and visit before it makes everyone´s life list.