El Fin del Viaje

Well that's all she wrote...we're heading home tomorrow and should be in Miami some time in the afternoon. A rented convertible awaits us there and we'll ride like the wind up the east coast, stopping to see some of our people along the way. It's been an awesome trip. Despite illnesses, sleepless nights on busses, lost photographs and a few shady characters we've made it through six months in the southern Americas. In the end, the innumerable positive experiences have by far outweighed any difficulties.

Thankfully Nathan and I are still married and will probably even miss being in each others' presence 24-7. Though at first we'll probably try to barter with cashiers in Wal-Mart and walk into shops with a resounding "Buenas tardes!" I think our readjustment period should be relatively painless. With luck we'll soon find employment and a place to call our own. Until then we just might end up on your couch one of these days, so be forewarned.

Here's to seeing you all soon and catching up on the last six months!

A Hodge-Podge

Since Choquequirao we've been having a grand old time meandering about and mostly taking it easy. We spent another few days in the Cusco area checking out the Sacred Valley, which runs northwest from the city towards Machu Picchu and holds more significant ruins from the Incan Empire. First we stopped at the ruins in Moray which archaeologists hypothesize were used for agricultural experimentation, specifically to test crop vitality in different climate zones, whose conditions were mimicked by the successive terrace levels.

From there we walked to the nearby Salinares. This collective salt mine has been used continuously since Incan times. Each pool belongs to a family who harvests the salt for personal use and extra income. A system of small aqueducts carries water from a spring above down through the complex so that each plot can be flooded with salt rich water then left to evaporate, leaving fresh salt behind.

Later we stopped for a night in Ollantaytambo, a town inhabited since Incan times and still built upon original Incan stone foundations. In true cheapskate style we scrambled up a hillside to sit at some patchy ruins (free entry) and watch the the tourists walk through the larger paid entry ruins across the valley. From there we headed to another small town called Pisaq and hit their famous Sunday market. The central square, and all the narrow cobbled streets leading up to it, were full of vendors selling weavings, clothing, jewelry and other such touristy stuff, but the central square is also the place where campesinos from the surrounding countryside come to sell their wares. Lovely fruits, veggies, dried herbs and spices, natural dyes and all manner of household goods could be bought.

Upon return to Cusco we learned we couldn't travel to Arequipa, as hoped, owing to road blocks in nearly every direction out of the city. For weeks people had been protesting proposed goverment acquisition of land for resource extraction by foreign companies, but when a bloody confrontation between natives and police led to dozens of deaths in northern Peru in early June, the whole country joined the fight. Recently the government overturned the controversial legislation and roadblocks were cleared, but by the time we left Cusco we had only one way out, and that way led to Lima. So there we went.

Arriving in Lima was a bit disappointing. We'd heard pretty much nothing good about the city, but had nonetheless figured we could find something to do in a place that big for a week until we flew out. Lima is not so bad, but not good enough to spend seven days in. One day was sufficient to check out Pizarro's tomb, the creepy but intriguing catacombs full of intricately arranged bones at the San Fransisco convent, and a museum on the Spanish Inquisition.

The next day we hopped a bus to Hauraz, where we can now be found. Huaraz is busy, bustling and maybe even a tad chaotic. Our hostel is a bit sketchy, but that has nothing to do with the ladies selling live guinea pigs and chickens out of bags on the street outside. Actually, that's my favorite part about this city. In the Mercado Central across the way you can find just about anything you need, including a two course lunch for less than a dollar.

Though we didn't have time to do one of the big trekking circuits we'd originally planned to, we did get into the Huascaran Park yesterday for a lovely hike up to Laguna 69. Though a rare bought of bad weather graced us with snow and rain at the higher altitudes it was nonetheless beautiful.

Choquequirao

Another day, another ruin. On our way back from Machu Picchu we ran into a fellow American named David, who was on his way back from some other ruins. After chatting a bit, he quickly convinced us to join him on a trek to Choquequirao, quickly becoming known as "the other Machu Picchu". So we returned to Cusco for a day to prepare then set out on the hike. It turned out to be a pretty brutal descent to a river one day, then an even more brutal 1500 meter ascent straight up to the ruins the next. Those Incas sure loved their mountain top cities. As usual, we declined the sensible option of mules to carry our gear and subjected ourselves to climbing with full packs.

All was worth the effort, though, as the ruins themselves are truly awesome. For one, the complex is larger than Machu Picchu, though only about 30% of it has been cleared. We saw many more government workers and archaeologists up there than tourists and enjoyed chatting with them about the plans for the site. The Peruvian goverment wants to bill it as Machu Picchu's sister, so that those coming to see the former will invariably visit Choquequirao, too. Thus far they have flushing toilets and showers at designated campsites and they hope to put in a cable car up to the ruins. For now, though, only hikers and those with enough money to land in a helicopter on the sacred ceremonial platform can access it.

When the ruins are completely cleared it will really be something spectacular. It already is. There are extensive agricultural terraces with designs of llamas built into the stone retaining walls, beautiful remains of temples and ceremonials sites, and lots more. You can still peek into the jungle and see more structures hiding under the vegetation. As you know from the recent "Correction", Machu Picchu was not a final holdout of the Incas against the Spanish, but researches believe that Choquequirao actually was. Rather, it was a kind of checkpoint into the area of Vilcapampa, where the Inca´s held out until the bitter end. This makes it that much more romantic and exciting.

We feel pretty lucky to have happened upon our friend David and to have seen this place before the masses hit. If they really do put in the infrastructure to make it easily accessible (which in itself will be an engineering feat par-Inca) the place will certainly become internationally renowned. If you can, get it while the gettin´s good and visit before it makes everyone´s life list.

Correction

So...Nathan got a little Indiana Jones on you and was carried away by his own adventure story of Macchu Picchu, so he may have been just a wee bit off in his Macchu Picchu facts. Being the stickler for accuracy (and, incidentally, the beautiful wife of the heroic adventurer) I feel I must set you straight. Machu Picchu was not a last stronghold of the Incas, though that sounds pretty cool. Actually, it was abandoned less than one hundred years after being built in the mid-15th century, perhaps due to the devestation of smallpox. It's precisely because it was abandoned, however, that so much of it remains today. Because the Incas left before the Spanish discovered it, the city wasn't plundered or destroyed.

Though much remained when Hiram Bingham was led to Machu Picchu by a local Quechua boy in 1911 (while searching for another site that was the actual last stronghold of the Incas) it wasn't as neat and tidy as it is today. It was consumed by jungle vegetation, and we recently learned that it was burned in order to clear this vegetation. This only destroyed a little itty bit of the original stonework, so don't worry. Most of what we see today has been rebuilt and restored. Regardless, it is spectacular and an amazing architectural feat.

Nathan also neglected to tell you about the savage beasts and hungry cannibals we fended off with machetes and whips while climbing vines to reach the lost city of Machu Picchu. But that's just details.

Machu Picchu

The last three days found our adventurers subverting the rising tide of tourism, sticking to their mantra(there must be a cheaper way), and taking a lesser trodden route to the most popular destination in South America. After spending a few hours on the internet, the dashing hero and his beautiful wife set out for that alternative way to those fabled ruins. Unfortunately, even the most famous "lost city of the Incas" has become a tourist trap that even the most dashing and the most beautiful adventurers must work to fight off the aggressive tactics of the commercial industries. There was a cheaper way, and surprisingly it wasn't all that difficult. All it took was a day's worth of bus rides with awful music and a few mini-van rides that had vertigo inducing cliffs(100 plus meter drops) without any guard rails. Yes, the adventurers are quite something.

To put it simply, the tourist industry of Machu Picchu is there for a reason. It is amazing. The aspect that I found most interesting about the ruins was the fine craftsmanship of the stonework. The walls of the temples and the royal enclosures were so finely constructed that even after a half a millenium they are still standing and still beautiful. The lost city was one of the last Incan strongholds as the Spanish conquest moved through South America. There are a few of these cities scattered throughout the mountains hidden from their invaders, Machu Picchu being the most famous.

Machu Picchu had a few temples, a royal enclosure, an astronomical observatory, agricultural areas, a guard house, 2 separate urban areas, and a central plaza. At one time, it was a fully self-sustaining community. All of this remains virtually hidden until the very moment you come upon the city on the mountaintop. We highly recommend a visit to this area of the world. Between the the beautiful city of Cusco and the endless Incan ruins, you can have yourself a nice little vacation.

Ausangate Trek

I suppose my turn to write finally came up so Nathan is on vacation for this one. We have made it back in one piece from another trek and this time we're a bit glad we don't have many more to go. Though a few more tempt us, we're not sure how much more energy we have left. We think we can squeeze one more out, though.


The Ausangate circuit, which circles the impressive Ausangate massif, is yet another example of the astounding world we live in. This planet continues to amaze me. Though we'd planned six days we managed to complete the circuit in five. It passes through incredible mountain terrain, complete with glaciers and associated lagoons and churning streams, but even more impressive to me were the settlements we enountered, most probably enduring since pre-Incan times. The mud brick huts and extensive stone fence lines are sturdy and solid, just like their inhabitants. Alpacas and llamas brave the harsh mountain weather all year long, feeding on the often sparse alpine vegetation. The Peruvian Andes harbor hearty creatures.



All the locals we met were very friendly and always eager to chat and exchange greetings (and sell us their wares). Children begged sweets (dame dulces! dame dulces!) which was a bit disappointing, though not surprising given how many western trekkers pass through their villages and probably do give sweets. On our final day we camped in the pueblo of Calachaca and woke to a frost laden tent and two tiny children in thin coats and sandals hovering by our camp waiting for a treat. They never asked, just sat by shyly, enduring my attempts at conversation in Spanish and waiting patiently for us to give them something. Most campesinos who live so remotely speak and understand only Quechua, so I got a lot of nodding and blank stares. But they understood a gift and a few happily walked away with our extra oatmeal, quinoa and raisins, even though they'd hoped for chocolate and jam. I guess we were like those people who give out pencils on Halloween.


As for the trekking itself, we were pretty happy to find that we could hack the altitude and carrying our own packs. Not to say we weren't exhausted. Two passes over 4800 meters and two more over 5100 meters were no cake walk. We did look longingly at others being carried by horses and their gear by mules and are contemplating this method for next time. Nonetheless, the scenery was spectacular and well worth the burning lungs.


Now we're back in Cusco and will head out to Macchu Picchu in a couple days. Though it's expensive as all get out and obviously very touristy, it seems almost obligatory and everyone who has visited has said that even the hordes of people and snapping cameras can't take away from the magic that emanates from the place. We definitely look forward to it and will of course report back.

Confessions of a Loser (of things)

Team morale hit an all-time low back in La Paz, Bolivia about a week ago. I lost the flash drive with all the pictures of the past four months on it. Cue sad face. Fear not, for all is not lost, only most of it. We still have the blog pictures and we put some up on photobucket.com, and I even have a few on Facebook. I think that this unfortunate event may haunt me for eternity. I can picture Beth, old and gray, telling all the grandkids about our exotic adventures and saying something like... "Well I would show you all the pictures but Grandpa lost them all in La Paz." At that point I would hang my head in shame while my own grandkids heckled me for my actions 40 years before. Anyway, we don´t even know for sure that all these digital pictures will even last that long. While we are on the subject, I lost my jacket and the headphone splitter so that we could listen to the Ipod at the same time. I almost lost my other jacket and my passport, but they were successfully recovered.

Let´s move on shall we and talk about adventure and pretty things. Over the last few weeks we have been doing some smaller hikes. Outside La Paz, we did a trek called El Choro which was a gruelling 4 day hike on an old Incan trade route through the mountains. What made it rough was that we began the hike at 4800 meters and descended down to 2200 meters. I have never been so sore in my life from hiking. Our knees were aching. It was a beautiful walk through both high altitude mountains and lush jungle valleys. It passed through towns where people still spoke Quechua and scratched out an existence by farming land that was 1 or 2 days walk from the nearest road.

After escaping the city of La Paz, we headed for Copacabana on the shores of Lake Titikaka. For my entire life, Lake Titikaka was just some lake that made me chuckle in my youth. (I still think that it is kinda funny, but now know it means "Rock of the Puma" in Quechua and Aymara.) It is a spectacular place. The sapphire blue waters are surrounded by mountainous terrain. We spent most of our time on Isla del Sol (Island of the Sun). It is where Incan legend places the beginning of the world. Beth thought that this was her favorite landscape so far. We spent 3 days traversing the island inspecting ruins, finding solitary campsites in empty coves along the lake, and trying to figure out where exactly we were. The locals on the island were exceptionally kind and helpful. Lake Titikaka has a kind of Mediterrenean feel to it and is definitely worth a visit.

We are currently hanging out in Cusco, Peru where we are preparing for another hike. It will be 6-8 days depending on the weather and other logistics. After the hike we will visit Macchu Picchu.